Journey Through Untamed Wilderness

I have been very fortunate to be a volunteer leader for Sierra Club Outings. My association is with the Alaska sub-committee. The 16 trips that I have taken in Alaska have been backpacking and rafting trips above the Arctic Circle in The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, The National Petroleum Reserve, and the Noatak National Preserve. These trips have been highlights of my life. This past March I was lucky to be selected for a different type of trip, a dog sledding trip. We started the trip in Fairbanks Alaska. Because of a lack of snow in the Alaska Range to the south, the start for the famous Iditarod race was moved to Fairbanks. It was scheduled to start the day after our trip. Fairbanks was a bit busier than I expected.

On Sunday we charted a six seat Wright Air flight to Eagle Alaska. We were greeted at the snow covered airport by Scarlett, Nate, and Matt of Bush Alaska Expeditions. Soon we were presented with insulated boots, overalls, mittens, and parkas. Then we loaded onto snow machines for the several mile trip down river to the Bush Alaska homestead. The trip was on the frozen Yukon River. We passed large mounds of jagged ice called jumbles. These are caused by the freezing of the river and then subsequent movement of that ice. Soon we were at the homestead with a beautiful view of the Yukon River and 60 dogs all with different personalities. With a warm cup of coffee Scarlett, Nate, and Matt began our “ground school” for dog sledding. The overwhelming point was learning how to control the constant urge for these dogs to run. The only physical controls are a brake on the sled and a hook that is basically used as a parking brake. I was surprised to learn that the only other controls are voice commands and your relationship with the dogs.

Soon we were all out in the yard feeding the dogs. Salmon are caught in a fish wheel on the Yukon in summer and then dried. Each day dried salmon is put into a big pot with rice and water and then heated. This is what we fed the dogs. It does not take long for them to devour a huge bowl of this mixture.

That evening over a delicious casserole made with moose meat and crackers with a spread made with salmon, we settled down to pleasant conversation. When I first went on a SC Outings trip I was surprised that one of the best things about these trips are the people on the trip. This trip was no exception. Positive energy, humor, courtesy, and curiosity flowed from this group.

The next day we were harnessing our dogs and hooking them up to the tug line on the sled. We each had our own sled. This can be a chaotic time in the dog yard. All of them are full of energy and are eager to go. It can get quite loud. Then we were on the trail for our 15 mile training run. The sled has two runners that you stand on. The brake is in between the runners. The hook is in a bag hanging from the handlebar. Shifting weight from side to side can help steer the sled but mostly the steering is accomplished by keeping the tug line tight. The sled follows the rear two dogs. You keep the tug line tight by using the brake. It takes some practice to coordinate this and falling off occasionally is part of the learning process. The voice commands are “gee” to turn right, “haw” to turn left, “whoa” to stop, and “are you ready? Let’s go” to start. When you say “are you ready” they are up and putting tension on that tug line. When you say “let’s go” you better hang on. We were on trails and if a trail split and the dogs went down the wrong trail I would yell “gee” or “haw” and they would turn and take the sled down the right trail. This amazed me.

The next day we headed out to a cabin in the Yukon-Charlie Rivers Preserve. The trail went through a spruce forest for some time. Being surrounded by these snow covered trees with the sun poking through was a memorable experience. The cabin was built by Matt. The large windows gave it a welcoming feel. That night the northern lights put on a display. We all went down and stood on the frozen river and watched for hours. The aurora dances across the sky. It can shift from east to west and north to south. Sometimes a band stretching across the whole sky. It is in motion. To my eye it was mostly while on these nights but time exposures with a camera pick up more light and can show as green or tinged with red.

In the morning the thermometer read -45. We learned an important lesson. With the proper clothing, you can not only survive these temperatures but you can thrive. The clothing they supplied kept us comfortable in this environment. The dogs stay out all night in these conditions.

We did a day trip up a narrow canyon to a place where a thermal spring had melted the ice. The following day we set out for another cabin 27 miles away on the Seventymile River on the other side of the Yukon. On the last day on the trail we traveled through Eagle and then back to the homestead.

On the trail it is very peaceful. You have to pay attention but there is plenty of time to look around. Standing on the sled all day can tire you out. Helping the sled up a hill by getting off and pushing can also get your heart rate up. The dogs seem to appreciate this. Going downhill though it is wise to use the brake often or you may end up tipping the sled over. I think my dogs felt sorry for me when this would happen to me and they would stop. Plus they did not want to drag a sled on its side.

Around the cabins our energetic group cut firewood, split firewood, took care of the dogs, and did our best to experience this lifestyle for a few days. One of the cabins also had a small sauna cabin. We all took turns in the sauna. You stay in until you can’t take it anymore and then go outside and rub yourself with snow, even at -30. Then back into the sauna. You do this twice and then wash and rinse with soap and water. It felt great to get clean in the middle of a trip. After we all had a sauna that night we were presented with another fantastic aurora display.

The weather was clear most days on the trail. The last day on the trail it was snowing. There is beauty in both types of weather.

The dogs were very well taken care of. They were some of the happiest dogs I have seen. Even after dragging me around all day they would come over and enjoy as much petting as I could give them.

This was a great opportunity for me to experience this mode of transportation, this lifestyle, and this environment. I am lucky for the people from Bush Alaska Expedition and the Sierra Club with whom I was able to share this experience.